Sawasdee Thai has right stuffing Flavorful spring rolls, crab and cheese won tons will win you over By Rita Moran, Restaurant critic January 6, 2005 An oasis of calm in a hectic world awaits diners at Sawasdee Thai Cuisine, which two months ago settled into a spot in a Johnson Drive shopping mall in Ventura -- and ever since has been making customers forget the round-robin passage of previous restaurants in the same location. Tenants have included a pizza place and, most recently, another Thai entry. Sawasdee ("Hi" in Thai) may be the one that makes it for the long haul. First, it's very attractively decorated, from the frosted-glass section near the entry for a bit of privacy to the graceful Buddhas gazing over the scene and the intricately carved artifacts discreetly placed throughout the dining area. A beautiful set of blue-and-white patterned dishes, linen table cloths and fresh-cut flowers add to the decor; soothing music completes the happy experience. And that's all before you touch the food, which has its own appeal. We visited Sawasdee for lunch, but naturally couldn't resist roaming a bit further into the menu. We began with items from the "starters" section of the menu: Crispy Siamese Tofu ($5.95), fresh spring rolls ($6.95) and Golden Bags ($5.95). Then we added an Indochine garden salad with chicken ($7.95) and three lunch specials: phad prik khing with pork, sauteed ginger chicken and spicy basil beef, each $6.95 (a price that included the soup of the day, salad, Thai fried spring roll and steamed rice). Everything came at a judicious and civilized pace, giving us something to savor continuously, but never enough to overwhelm at one time. First to arrive were cups of the day's soup, galanga and coconut chicken soup, which was a cornucopia of flavors and textures: chicken, tofu, mushrooms, baby corn and other vegetables combined with the slightly spicy coconut base. It was one of the best Thai soups I've tasted and garnered applause from my two friends, who were still in a more experimental phase of their relationship with Thai food. Then, one at a time came the appetizers. The Golden Bags, crisp-fried won tons stuffed with crab and a blend of cheeses, reminded us all of Crab Rangoon, but surpassed many versions of that with a definitive crab essence and a more complex cheese mixture. Light and crisp, they came with a delicate plum sauce for dipping. The tender tofu, cut in triangles and lightly breaded before frying, worked well with a subtle sauce with crushed peanuts. My favorite, fresh spring rolls, really lived up to their name, with lots of greenery and flavors, folded into rice paper cones with minced chicken and shrimp. They came, again, with their own sauce, similar but distinct from the others. A friend and I shared the Indochine garden salad with chicken. We enjoyed the fresh mango and the pineapple, flavorful but not fresh, over an unusual mixture of greens topped with a fairly thick peanut dressing. Finally, came the entrees. Phad prik khing pork featured chicken strips mingled with green beans, green and red peppers and mint leaves, all enlivened by a dark but light-textured curry sauce. The spicy basil beef, ordered medium-spicy by my friend, was daunting to me with its intense after-kick, but he liked it just fine, especially after he got used to the zing in his mouth. Sauteed ginger chicken was boldly flavored with grated fresh ginger in a brown sauce and, as with the other entrees, delicious fresh vegetables. We took just a few items home with us and noticed upon opening those cartons how gracefully arranged each was, even including a fresh helping of sauce. There are a lot more dishes to sample on Sawasdee's menu, with extensive selections of salads, curries, seafood, noodles and fried rice. We'll definitely be back to say, "Hi!" again. My friends couldn't get over what a relaxing experience dining at Sawasdee was, and how appetizing the food. We agreed the restaurant has all the ingredients for staying power. SAWASDEE THAI CUISINE LOCATION: 2887 Johnson Drive, Suite A, Ventura. 642-8879. HOURS: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 5 to 10 p.m. Fridays through Sundays. WHAT'S HOT: Galanga and coconut chicken soup, fresh spring rolls, Golden Bag IMPRESSIONS: Attractive and comfortable setting; gracious, efficient service; Thai food with fresh ingredients and various appropriate seasonings. COST OF LUNCH FOR TWO: $14-$18.